Back on the menu this week are Chef Kevin Davis’ sumptuous Fried Green Tomatoes. Crisp on the outside, moist and tangy on the inside, and served with a rich mustard vinaigrette – they are comfort food in its purest sense.
Many will think it’s a natural – chef is from the south, Louisiana to be specific. Fried green tomatoes are from the south. Right? Wrong!
Robert F Moss, food writer and culinary historian explored the roots of this cult-like dish in his book, The Fried Green Tomato Swindle. Himself a Southerner from Charleston with long family history in the region, he determined to discover the truth. His research traced the origins of the dish to the northern and mid-Eastern states in the early 1900’s, not appearing in southern newspapers or books until the 1940’s.
So why are we so attached to the “Southern-ness” of Fried Green Tomatoes? Remember the 1991 classic “Fried Green Tomatoes” and the book the movie was based on, set at the Whistle Stop Cafe? It appears Hollywood is more convincing than we thought! What the movie did was drive the popularity of this dish, once just served in the kitchens of farming and working-class families during the Depression, to make the most of those late summer tomatoes that won’t ripen. Now you’ll even find them on the finest menus, including that of Kevin Davis, with fine dining to barbecue chefs waiting in eagerness for that basket of plump green firm gems to make their own rendition of this (definitely American) dish.
Chef Kevin has agreed to share his secrets for his own Fried Green Tomatoes, but you’ll never beat eating them at the Canyon River Grill made from his own hands.
Kevin’s Fried Green Tomatoes with Hot Sweet Mustard Vinaigrette
First rule is only use vine ripened local tomatoes, not hot house, and don’t go for the big ones – medium is best.
- Slice tomatoes on a mandolin, about 1/4 inch thick.
- Set out 3 large shallow bowls – one with flour and salt, one with buttermilk, and one with a mix 2/3 cornmeal, 1/3 flour, seasoned with salt, white pepper, cayenne, paprika, garlic and onion powder to your taste.
- Dip tomatoes, one at a time, into flour, then buttermilk. Allow excess to drain off then dip in cornmeal mixture.
- Heat oil in a cast iron skillet over medium high heat – enough to come up to half the sides of the tomatoes. When oil is hot, add tomatoes (don’t crowd the pan), and cook until golden brown, then flip and cook until both sides are done. Transfer to a paper towel to drain, sprinkle with a little finishing salt, and serve straight away with the vinaigrette below.
Sweet Hot Mustard Vinaigrette
- 2 tablespoons Dijon Mustard
- 2 tablespoons Sweet Hot Beaver Mustard
- 2 tablespoons Champagne Vinegar
- to taste, salt, toasted white and black mustard seeds
Whisk all together.
Bon Appetit!